Brachetto e Amaretti

In the picture above... A sweet and frizzante dessert wine, and some fragrant amaretti. Notice the cookie I opened, just so you could see how golden and perfect they are? You know I ate it, right? Even if it is technically off my diet.

Yesterday we took a drive in the countryside in the hills of Monferrato. It was so beautiful, I was soaking in the scenery while M drove. I kept thinking "Oh, this would make a nice postcard, oh no, this view is better!" I wish I had taken pictures... but of course how could I ask M to stop the car... every hill we went over offered another wonderful view. Imagine beautiful Italian villas surrounded by bountiful vineyards. Picture sweet little hill top towns and impressive castles and churches. This is an area we will be back to visit, hopefully on a sunny blue-sky day.

We stopped in a village called Mombaruzzo and bought some amaretti cookies. Then later after our lunch we bought some wine in a town called Canelli at the Antica Cantina Sociale.

possibly useful information on bathrooms

It is a rainy Monday morning here in Torino dear reader, and I have decided to share my opinions with you about the bathrooms here in Italy. If you have ever come here as a tourist, you already know what I am about to describe, but if you are one of our friends or family who will come visit us here, I think you should read this.

First of all I would like to differentiate between bathrooms in private homes, and public bathrooms. The former are pristine, spotlessly clean, and comfortable. There is almost always a bathtub and or a shower, a toilet, a sink and a bidet. I don’t know how I lived the first 34 years of my life without a bidet. Perhaps it has to do with the fact I was born and raised in the U.S.A., where no one I ever knew had one. I am writing the next part of this paragraph for fellow Americans who have never seen a bidet - Everyone else can skip it. I think they are such a useful invention. A bidet is a sort of a sink usually next to the toilet. Yes it is useful for washing feet, in warm water with available soap and a fluffy towel to dry, but it is also used for washing other body parts too, after one is finished with the toilet, and before pulling up jeans or patting down a skirt. It is very useful for a boy I know who still at his age has trouble wiping. A bidet allows him to easily clean himself, without taking a shower after going to the bathroom. Sorry, I got sidetracked on the subject of bidets, what I really want to stress is that in a casa here in Italy, the bathrooms are really clean.

On the other hand, there are the bathrooms available to the public. It is easy to find a bathroom in a shopping mall, or in a supermarket, but what do you do when you are walking around in a charming Italian village or city? I used to think that there weren’t nearly enough bathrooms available to the public. Not so. Everywhere you see a bar is a potential bathroom. I have never heard of anyone just going into a bar and asking to use their bathroom- what you should do is to order yourself a caffé, and then ask to use their bathroom. This usually involves some directions in Italian, going outside the actual bar, opening a very large wooden door with a huge key, going inside the courtyard and into a hard to find room attached to the backside of the bar... sometimes the door is labeled "Toilette" or "W.C." When you open the door, look around for a light switch. Sometimes there is a light that turns itself on as you open the door, and mysteriously turns itself off when you are halfway through your business in there. So be prepared for the unexpected.

First rule: Don’t touch anything. For some reason I don’t understand, people do pee in the bathrooms, but not necessarily exactly in the toilets.

Second rule: Don’t expect for there to be any toilet paper. Bring your own, in the form of tissue paper. If you are here long enough you will become really good at remembering the second rule.

Third rule: Don’t expect for there to be a sink. Sometimes there is though, but don’t expect for there to be any hand towels. Your tissues again are helpful for this if there is a sink.

Fourth rule: Don’t expect for there to be a toilet that looks like any toilet you have ever seen before. Sometimes you can find a normal looking toilet, that is simply lacking a seat. Sometimes it will be a "Turkish toilet" pictured later.

Fifth rule: The "flushing device" may be located almost anywhere. It can be a string you pull above your head, it can be located on the tank of the toilet, a button anywhere on the wall, or down on the floor as a sort of button you push with your foot. If you keep a sense of humor, and your tissue paper in your pocket, you can look at having to use the public bathrooms as a sort of adventure. After all, you never know what you’ll find! And, thank goodness you actually found a bathroom when you needed it, right?  Good luck!  ;)



Pictured above: a fairly clean (for a public bathroom) example of a "Turkish toilet."

Miss Italia at our house

If my sons read this entry they may want to take away my computer privileges. At the tender ages of 11 and 9 years old my boys are enthusiastically watching the Miss Italia pageant this year. But they wouldn't want their school buddies to know. Because it is just not cool. Watching half naked men grapple eachother (wrestling) is cool, but watching half naked girls isn't.
At first I thought it was a clever ploy for subverting our newly imposed "Back to school-early to bed" routine. But no, it turns out that each has a favorite or several favorites that he wishes would win. For Matthew he likes a girl named Allessia because she looks exactly like one of his teachers. Gabriel prefers all the girls from the region of Puglia. Last night I was at my pc when I heard excited happy shrieking from Matthew: "Mamma mamma, come quick! Miss Italia is back on tv!" If I understood the closing credits to the program last night, then tonight will be the final Miss Italia episode. Any guesses to what our family will be watching tonight?

An English/Italian & (surprise!) German lesson

My friend Rosy is Italian, and part of her childhood was spent in Germany.  She has been practicing her self taught English with me and the boys. In return she has been helping us learn Italian. We usually have a lot of fun, and base our lessons on conversation and reading. Today a class-mate of Gabriel’s who also speaks German, came over to our house during the time Rosy was here. I already knew he and his sister spoke English quite well. Rosy and he were speaking in Italian, and suddenly they were speaking in German! It was fabulous to hear! So then we started a game, One of us mother-tongue English speakers would speak in English, a German speaker would answer in German, and the other German speaker would translate the German into Italian. And we would answer back in English. We kept the conversation going in this way, and it was so much fun! For the boys and I, our lives have changed so much since we came here, and this is a good example. Gabriel and Matthew are also learning French in school, and continuing their English lessons there too, although all of the other classes such as history and science are taught in Italian.

just wondering

Yesterday at almost 6 pm, I was resting my elbows on the window sill and looking down the street, waiting for the school bus to bring the boys home. Delta was downstairs in the garden playing with her dog friend Oliver, an Irish Setter who lives two floors above us.
An elderly couple was walking by the garden fence with their dog, and Oliver barked at them. The man yelled "Shut up!" to Oliver and then looked up and met my eyes. (I promise that I had no strange expression on my face. It is normal to me- for dogs to bark. Especially at other dogs. If someone wants to say something good or bad to them, so be it). Then he explained to me that they were walking by, the dogs barked and he told them to shut up. I said "Yes, dogs are like this. It is their garden and they probably feel protective of it. When we walk our dog past other people’s gardens their dogs often bark at her too." And he replied. "But they run to the other side of the house and wait for us, and bark again." I smiled and repeated "Dogs are like this." Then the woman said "Very well, it is their garden." and they crossed to the other side of the street. The man looked back and glared at me three times! He looked at me as if I were from Mars. I was thinking-"What did I say that was upsetting to him?" When M came home, I repeated the whole conversation to him in Italian, to make sure that what I said in Italian is what I thought I said! I was also afraid that I said something socially unacceptable. He said that my Italian was perfectly understandable, and he couldn’t guess why they were upset with me. But I wonder...
A few months ago I wouldn’t have even spoken to that couple. I am shy to begin with, plus my inexperience in this new language makes me feel awkward. But... after months of being in this city feeling essentially mute, and unable to easily express myself, I decided that enough is enough! I miss casual conversation. I will speak! Making small talk with strangers, cashiers at the grocery store, people next to me in line, well, that is among the things I miss about Oregon. It was so easy, so natural to smile and talk. Here it requires effort, and sometimes- like yesterday, you aren’t rewarded by another friendly soul. I wonder... how long will it be before I feel like I fit in here? How long until I speak Italian well? Ha ha! I guess I should go study now!

School Shopping Ancora

It looked so innocent... a white paper with the title: Anno Scolastico 2006 -2007, Classi 3 B e 5 B, MATERIALE. Scholastic Year 2006 -2007, Classes 3 B and 5 B, Materials. Then at the bottom of the page: IMPORTANTE: Tutto il materiale deve avere l’etichetta con il nome. Important all the material should have a label with the name. We received the list of school supplies the boys need this year. And so it began... We have gone to a cartoleria, a stationary supply store that carries the necessary school supplies, and several supermarkets over the last several days trying to find each of the items on the lists. It is Sunday afternoon as I am writing this, and we still haven’t gotten everything the boys need. So we plan to go again to another supermarket this evening in hopes that this one will have the last things on our list. Yesterday it was so crowded at Carrefour that we had to stand in line waiting to get to the cash register for about 40 minutes. I should have brought a book to read! This morning we tackled the mountain of school supplies that we already have, and attached a label to everything belonging to each boy. If this year is like last, the teachers will give us more lists a few more times in the next weeks. Now, all of this has to get to the school, and there is no way it can all fit at once in the boys' backpacks (not to mention that would be too heavy for them)... We may have to send them to school with large rolling suitcases. Ha!

Poetry

Proof that children are treasures:

Alla Mamma
by Gabriel age 10

Mamma tu sei la piu bella della famiglia
I tuoi capelli sono seta tra le mie mani
Il tuo volto e scolpito dagli angeli
e mi da speranza
La tua bocca dice solo parole buone,
il tuo sorriso mi da felicita
Sei frizzante come la coca cola
La tua dolcezza e la tua belezza
Il tuo odore e buono come I petali di una viola
Tu sei per me preziosa e io ti ringrazio.
English:
Mamma you are the most beautiful of our family
Your hair is silk between my hands
Your countenance is carved by angels
You give me hope
Your mouth says only good words
your smile gives me happiness
You are bubbly like coca cola
Your sweetness is your beauty
Your smell is good like the petals of a violet
You are for me precious and I thank you.
(What mom wouldn’t cry over this poem)?

A mia Papa’
by Matthew age 8

Mio papa’ e’ molto dolce.
A me piace quando scherza
Quando mi aiuta con i compiti
Quando compra il gelato per me
Lui e’ il papa’ piu’ dolce
e il migliore nel mondo!
A mi piace usare il tempo con lui
I suoi occhi sono marroni come il cioccolato
A me papa’ sembra un bel teddy bear
English:
My dad is very sweet.
I like it when he jokes.
When he helps with homework
When he buys ice cream for me
He is the sweetest and best dad in the world!
I like to spend time with him
His eyes are brown like chocolate
My dad is like a nice teddy bear.

Laundry

Wet. Soaked. Dripping. That describes the laundry left since yesterday hanging outside our apartment balcony. We woke up to a hard rain this morning in Torino. If the rain doesn’t stop soon I’ll go retrieve it and move it all to the clothes lines installed over the bathtub in one of the bathrooms, and later to the dryer. Yes, I am one of the lucky ones who has a dryer! Since moving here I have learned that it is not the norm to use a dryer. I don’t know how my Italian neighbors manage. With a household of four people, I do a lot of laundry! Even with every available clothesline used, inside and outside the house it still takes a long time to dry. Sometimes it takes days to dry in this humidity. Before I had a dryer, sometimes I would use the iron to help expedite the drying process. I never thought I would see myself ironing socks or underwear.... but when the boys needed them dry for school, I did! That brings up a funny memory for me. I was still living in Oregon, and had the opportunity to take an Italian class before moving here. The instructor was talking about ironing... how even now when he goes back to Italy his mother would still iron his underwear... how all the Italian Mamme iron Everything. Well, I rarely have enough free time. But I just have to say, Italian moms will do almost anything to take good care of their children, and make them feel cherished. My hat is off to them.

Not a yellow school bus?

The boys arriving home from school today.

This year the boys are riding to and from school in a van (Read small private school bus). Last year M would take them to school before he went to work, and I would bring them home in the afternoons using public transportation.
I remember when I was a child, riding to school on a yellow school bus daily. Neither of my boys have ever experienced that. First because when we lived in a larger town in Oregon we lived within walking distance of the school and so there was no bus service. When we lived in a very rural community they attended a private school that did not have buses. It looks like this is one common American memory that they won't have.
When the children go on field trips here, they use the public transportation system. Young children are usually brought to and from school by their parents or grandparents etc. and the older ones usually ride the public transportation alone. There are a lot of schools in the city, so it is possible to find the apporopriate one right within walking distance in your neighborhood.
We simply chose a school that is (unfortunately) clear across the city from where we live.

What is for dinner?

Homemade Lasagne!
Ingredients:
200 gram box of ready-to-use "besciamella"
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion
300 grams of ground beef or pork
salt to taste
400 grams of tomato sauce
ready-to-use flat pasta for lasagne (fresh or frozen)
Saute onions in olive oil until they are soft, add ground beef or pork. Cook until the meat is done. Add the tomato sauce and simmer over low flame for one hour. Add spices you like!
How to make the besciamella if you cannot find it. You need: 50 gr of margarine or butter (butter is better) 50 gr flour 1/2 liter of cold milk, salt. pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg
Melt the margarine or the butter and add the flour. Then add the milk little by little, keep mixing to avoid lumps. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Cook for 10 minutes always mixing.
Combine the besciamella with the meat sauce. Add it between layers of the lasagne pasta in a baking dish. Add grated parmesan cheese liberally.
Put in a pre-heated oven at 200°C (that is nearly 400 Fahrenheit) for 20 minutes (bake for 10 minutes covered with aluminum foil and 10 minutes uncovered).
Buon Appetito!
Credit for this recipe belongs to M's mother, Nella.

First day of School!

The boys were so excited last night that they could hardly sleep!

So much emotion! Friends separated for 3 whole months see eachother again!

Last year all of this was unknown territory. A new school, new class-mates, and a new language! This year they know what to expect, their Italian has improved incredibly, and they are so excited to see their friends and teachers. Happy first day of school!!!

Saturday afternoon in France

It was Saturday morning, and we woke up to grey skies over Torino. Looking North, I couldn’t see the Alps. A quick check online showed the forecast was rain in the morning in Torino. However we decided to brave the weather and stick to our plan to drive into the Alps and to France for the afternoon.
Later in the morning the sun peeked out as we were on our way. The views were fantastic, only some very high places were obscured by fog. The first beautiful surprise was within a few kilometers of crossing into France. The fog rolled back and revealed a jewel of a lake. I love high mountain lakes and this one is especially beautiful. We drove on past enjoying the scenery and then down, down, down the other side of the mountains. We stopped on the side of the road to let Delta roll in the clover and romp! She needed it. The air was cool, and the sun warm and the color of the fields and trees so green. The sky was a brilliant blue, and the air was fresh. I felt invigorated. It was nice to be out of the city.
We drove on to Modane, but found no restaurants open for lunch! We turned back and ate in a small village named Lanslebourg. This town was charming! I can almost promise that every window had a window box cascading with bright flowers, and everything was so clean. And strange to my eyes, there were few people walking around. It was so quiet.
While window shopping I found some things I had to purchase, and so went inside the store. As I went to pay, I suddenly realized that I should speak to the clerk in French to at least say: “Here is my credit card, my ID” , and “thank you.” How was I going to do it? I don’t know any French. I smiled a lot, and said, Grazie, Arrivederci! She smiled back at me and said whatever it was she said in French, and off I went with my purchases. So, it worked. Now, whenever I feel nervous about speaking Italian to Italians I shall try to remember this moment! At least I’m able now to have a conversation, albeit basic conversation in Italian.
On the way back to Italy we stopped at a dairy farmer’s shop and bought some cheese. Then we continued on and decided to stop at a small village called Moncenisio. M said that some years ago he knew that it was the smallest comune in all of Italy. It was beautiful. Still and quiet. We took another small walk there and then decided it was time to go back to Torino.

fare la spesa

Todays shopping accomplished: The nearest supermarket is a little store only a couple of blocks away from our house. It is fairly small compared to supermarkets in small town USA, but it is packed with a lot of products. I go there about once a week, usually when the refrigerator starts to look bare, in between shopping excursions  to the bigger supermarkets like Coop or Auchan or Carrefour. Shopping at the open air market on Corso Svizzera is also nice and usually entertaining, but it is better to shop there when you don't have an idea of what you want to cook first. That way the fresh produce can inspire you; that and it is a little difficult to plan meals when you are never quite certain what you will find at the open air market. With a supermarket it is different. I know what GS stocks and can easily bring home in a backpack the amount of food pictured above. Another plus of shopping at the local supermarket is my little secret... I don't love to shop with a crowd, always being bumped into. I prefer to shop while everyone else is at home having lunch. GS around 1 pm is nearly empty, and I can browse uninterrupted.

Olympic Torch

Matthew was among some of the lucky students here in Torino who were able to hold the Olympic torch. This photo was taken after the Olympics , I think in the month of May. He says he was the only boy in his class who held this one - in one hand for the photo, because it was so heavy! He also wishes that it had been aflame! All I can say is ...Lucky boy.

School shopping begins...

Yesterday we started shopping for the boys' supplies and clothing. I was trying to convince them that shopping was fun, but I don't think I succeeded. The only time they really got excited was when they were picking out their diaries. We started yesterday by going to our local outdoor market. Unfortunately you never know in advance what will be there. Yesterday there were a lot of nice clothes, but nothing for boys Gabriel and Matthew's age. So we next went to Coop because we had already seen a nice selection of diaries there. The boys chose their diaries, and a few other supplies and we next went to Auchan. There we found some clothing. I wanted to keep shopping because we were no where near finished, but I started getting some comments like "I'm bored, I am tired, can I go sit down?" To make a long story short we only accomplished a little. Why don't boys like shopping?

I must make a quick mention about the diaries. This is one of the things that I am most impressed about with schools in Italy. Here a child has a diario, it is full of parental contact information, and each day the child must go to school with it. In this way there is daily communication about the child between parent and teacher if need be. Otherwise you simply sign your inital each school day, to signify that you have looked for a nota from the teacher. I love this simple and efficient way of communicating with the teachers. The children also record in their diary any homework they must do, and once again the parent must sign their name. It helps the parent know exactly what is expected of the child at school.

Dormiglione

Matthew age 8, asleep at the table before his dinner arrived. Yes, we placed the wine near him for photo effect - that's what he gets for falling asleep at the table with us! We woke him once his food arrived.
 In the beginning weeks of our life in Italy, the boys had to adjust to a new schedule, including eating dinner often after 8 pm. We did so much exploring and perhaps they were still a little jet-lagged, so often in the evenings the boys couldn't hardly stay awake. They were used to dinner at 6 and bedtime at 9 pm. Fast forward a year, and it is sometimes difficult to get them to sleep before mid-night.